The ride from Calgary to Edmonton was a nice one. Well, after the speeding ticket at least. It was absolute discrimination, disgusting. I was in behind a pack of vehicles, about 5 of us, and we were doing about 140. We crested a hill and there was a cruiser in a U-turn facing away from us with his door open. We all slowed down, I pulled over into the slow lane, now doing about 120 with another car. The other 3 were farther ahead. Finally he pulled up and came up behind me. Followed me for about 3 minutes waiting for me to do something retarded, probably running my plates "Oh lucky day! This guy has lots of speeding tickets! He won't argue!" I didn't. I didn't feel like it. "What's the problem officer?" "You're doing 32 over" I could have asked why I was singled out from the other vehicles, but I just didn't have it in me. He didn't even drop it down. 142 in a 110. I believe in justice, I believe in the law, I beleive in order, but I also believe in equality, and fair treatment. I served for those ideals. And here I was being picked because of my motorcycle.
Don't beleive me? We both took off and continued on. Two packs of cars were ahead of us. I was in behind the rear pack, he spead up to the front pack... behind a guy riding a sportbike. He followed him for 4 minutes too. Then finally the cherries came on. The guy did nothing wrong. I was so angry. It didn't make it better that the guy was totally nervous talking to me. He knew what he was doing.
In 3 years my abstract will be clean again. In the meantime I may lose my license for a month come this court date in March. That won't have any implication on my job, and I can go a month without a vehicle, as I catch a charter bus to the mines, and I live within running distance to my gym, and anything else I need. But the demerits might impact my insurance.
So for 3 years, no more speeding. Man oh man will travelling be long, and riding be boring. Just have to enjoy the scenery for longer!
The trees thickened in spots to protect farmers fields from the wind that often drives across the flat prairies, golden and yellow against the overcast skies. Just lovely. Riding into Edmonton, it really dawned on me how gorgeous that city is. Calgarians always say it's so dirty there. But the river valley that the large city sprawls along was rich with colour. Striking.
Met up with my cousin for some lunch and to catch up on everything. Ate at Joey Tomatoes. One of her new friends joined us. I'd wanted to see all of my family, but I didn't have a lot of time. I'd emailed my last coffeehost to let them know that I was going to be in town a day early and couldn't get together. They replied that a day early was even more convenient, so after getting checked into my hostel, GO Backpacker, I met up with them for a fun evening of sushi on Whyte ave, a tour of the Legislature grounds where I got to experience Purple City (A must-try! lol), and drinks at some nice pub downtown, while talking about music and sharing laughs.
The next morning I awoke to use the washroom in my dorm room at the hostel. I'd heard my solitary room mate get up in the middle of the night to use the toilet, but remember nothing else. He'd been kind enough to not flush to avoid awakening me... So a family of turds resided in the bottom of the bowl. I dare not stir water with a morning pee for fear of an attrocious smell expelling from the sealed, still, water. Ya know, I just remember, there was no toilet paper in there either. Kinda sad, I mean, he was a little slow, I gathered from a brief chat as I was leaving. But I wasn't going to make fun, I actually thought it was cool that he was out travelling on his lonesome despite his condition.
I went and got my new front tire put on at Argyll. They seemed to try their best to appease me after their massive screwup over my recall items. But they were really sticky about the broken autoshifter. "Well, how do we know you didn't have 7 of your friends jumping on the thing?" I was kind of offended. Especially because they lose no money when they do a warranty repair. BMW takes the heat. As far as I know anyway. They might lose on the servicing, but it'd take an hour to change.
I left for home, Fort McMurray. The poplars and the birch trees with their yellow, gold leaves were so beautiful. I'd been riding for an hour, with the flow of traffic, no longer speeding, and I realized I'd forgotten to go meet my little cousin who'd just been married. I had missed the wedding because of my tight intinerary, and missed congratulating him in person. I'd call him later. I did, and he was fine with that.
As I got farther north, more spruce were springing up, and the interspersed shades of green added to it.
Finally coming into Fort McMurray, I felt the bitter sweetness. One really does have to 'make the best of it' here. But I thought back to my tour. All the experiences, the people,the places, the sites, the realizations, the epiphanies, the lessons, I was thankful for it all. And I knew it had profoundly shaped the rest of my life.
Thank you to everyone I met who made my time so wonderful. And thank you even to the wierdo in Bakersfield who gave me a funny story to tell (but don't set people up for mugging anymore thaaaanksss). Thank you to all of you who supported me by reading my blogs, keeping in touch, or thinking of me. I will write a book to retell the story, details may be altered, alternative names used, but it will hold true to my thoughts, my feelings, and tell a real account of 3 months on the road.
Rolled into Calgary sometime in the afternoon, it was gorgeous approaching and seeing the mountains in the distance. Of course I'd forgotten to plug in my blessed celphone with google maps on it soooo... navigating was sorta hard, hehe
After pulling into a McDonalds and charging the phone briefly, I was back on the freeway and at the Hostel International downtown, or rather just on the outskirts. It was pasta night, $3. Followed by a pub crawl led by two of the guys who work at the hostel. Sure, this could be good. Met a couple good assuie dudes and a few people from Ireland, and as it turned out, we were all on the crawl.
It didn't end up being a 'crawl' perse... Certainly I didn't drink that much, although I did have more than the few sociable drinks I generally drink. But we ended up stopping at a place called Amsterdam Rhino, really nice and trendy. Wish I'd known it was $3 highballs that night because the pints were $6. Then after that it was on to a place called Roadhouse. Roadhouse is your typical woodfloor, wood wall, meat market. It was early but it was starting to fill up. I heard quite a ruckus coming from the other half of the club, partitioned by curtains adorned with the logos of a local radio station, as you'd expect. I walked back there to see what all the fuss was about. A semi circle of women sat drinking and cheering as some latino looking guy slid across the dance floor on his knees, tearing through his tank top (probably with a pre-cut through the seam no doubt). Oh, THAAAAT'S what all the fuss is about. Well then I'll just rejoin my gang of hostellers now, lol
I got back to my group of people, and amazingly enough, none other than Captain Morgan was in the house!! He was taking photos with people and promoting his rum. Well naturally I asked for free samples. He claimed they were coming later. Then things got out of control and he took me hostage with his flintlock. Thank god one of the aussies got a picture both for evidence later and cause it looked damn hilarious.
The dancefloor was madness. Just ask the Irish hosteller that ended up making out with one of our tour guides, lol, and just to be clear, it wasn't the one who has pledged his loyalty to his girlfriend far, far away. They were cool dudes, that one was from Quebec but has been working out here for a couple of years at different hostels. And the other guy was from France.
At one point some tiny little girl was talking to me. She started getting a little arrogant and big headed. The conversation was over for me, but she mentioned she was in Muay Thai (not to be confused with the oh-so delicious Mai Tai's.. although I'm sure she'd had a few of those that night). I couldn't resist, "Well I bet I still have better tougher abs then you". She delivered two blows to my stomach. I laughed. She thundered in two more as fast and hard as her little fists could deliver them. I laughed even harder. Then took out my camera and took a picture of her while laughing. She went ape-shit, throwing punch after punch into my torso with all the intensity she could muster! I was laughing my ass off but that was making her so much madder I was anticipating her moving to my face. I didn't want to restrain her, that doesn't often look good, so I opted to just keep backing up until her girls were able to reel her in and calm her down. I LOVE classy women.
An hour or so later, it felt like hometime even though it was only about 1. I was fairly good and drunk, and felt like some pizza. I hopped a cab and directed it to the Hostel International. A short distance later the meter read 5.74 and I was in front of a large tall building. "Hotel International" the cabbie said. "Nooo.. I said HOSTEL International, man..." "Okay Hostel International..." "Wait.. are you stopping the meter?" "No" "Why not? You took me to the wrong place." "I didn't understand you." "Well so what! This is your mistake, you should have had me clarify! I'm getting out, and I'm not paying for this" I don't know what he said as I was leaving but I think it was something along the lines of "You're right, this is my fault, I apologize. I dearly hope I haven't inconvenienced you too greatly this fine evening, good sir" Or maybe it was a bunch of belligerence and profanity. The lobby of the hotel was good enough to show me on a downtown map where I was and how to get home.
The night air was good for me. Walking and stopping periodically to attempt capture of things I saw that struck me right. Just my thoughts and I on that walk, I relished that time and made the best of it. I hadn't been meant to return home with my fellow hostellers it seemed. This was just as it needed to be.
The next day I spent some time marking local galleries and art museums on my downtown map so that I'd have something to do for the day. The night previous I'd gone through the local events paper and saw the Philharmonic was doing some of the best of Jackson 5 and Michael Jackson. Sounded promising. I'd purchased a ticket online.
I was told by the hostel manager that I could park my bike in the back yard to avoid any potential ticketing out on the street. I maneuvered through the back alley and was greeted by a homeless man and woman who were hanging out by the dumpster behind the hostel.
I can't help but be curious as to why some one would be homeless. I mean sure, probably starts with substance dependancy, then loss of job, then depression, in a perpetual downward spiral. Or some sort of mental disability. Or both. But is it always the case? So the guy had gotten to talking to me. It was noon, he was pretty talkative. And intoxicated. He told me all about their lives there in Calgary. It's apparently easy to make it there. Lots of shelters, free food, welfrare cheques. The shelter lets you stay there for 2 months at a time, has several big screen TV's for sports and movies, and many people just sit in there 24 and 7 except for the couple of hours they have to leave during cleaning. Him and his lady friend enjoyed being out on their own and mostly camped out and told me about how once the 'crackers', people who use crack, moved into the parks, the city had to do a lot of deforestation so they'd have less area to hide and use, meaning they had to move. Mostly what I took from it all was the answer I was looking for. I asked him bluntly, "Do you enjoy it? Being out on your own?" "Well, I do.. ya know that old U2 song? 'Still haven't found what I'm looking for'? I found what I was looking for. I get to drink and smoke dope on the job any time I want..." "The job? You mean collecting bottles?" "Yeah, pickin'" he called it. Well, as long as he was happy.
I was hungry, but my battery needed to be recharged. Oh speaking of which, I better go do that! So I went walking in search of somewhere to grab lunch to let the battery charge during that time. first thing I saw was the Art Central Bistro. Great decor, really nice spot. Good food. Great service. Had a nice chat with my server, very informative!
Walking around downtown now that it was day, it was interesting just how small-town it felt here. Rather than have condo apartments all over densely populating in downtown, there were sprawling residential areas as far as the eye could see. Well maybe not quite. I made this observation from the Calgary Tower. Not as nice as the CN Tower I imagine, BUT it does provide views of the rockies which is quite neat. I was pleasantly surprised to not be bombarded by tough guy after tough guy in the streets. Being a 'cowboy' town which hosts the stampede every year, I'd expected more of that. But it was surprisingly metropolitan and contemporary here. I liked it. On the walking street in the center of town was a horse made entirely out of salvaged metal bits. It was incredible. Even more so than the steal man I'd seen in Fargo.
I continued wandering until I'd gotten to some galleries. I stopped in at the Gerry Thomas gallery. He apparently does sport photography as a profession, but naturally takes a great deal of other photos to express his artistic side. Many of the other artists displayed there had work that was a pleasure to see. Thank you to the kindly gallery manager.
I'd seen a guy walking around with a photographer bag and a much nicer camera than my own. Musta been a pro. He stopped a group of three women in front of the Calgary Tower and asked if he could take a pic up towards the tower with them in the foreground. "Oh not good buddy" I thought to myself. And sure as shit, while crouched low lining up the shot, one girl says "Yeah.. because girls love having their pictures taken from a low angle..." I couldn't but laugh as I heard that. Just look at all the pictures girls take of themselves. A vast percentage are taken, their cameras held up above head height facing down.
I skipped the Glenbow art museum. They were exhibiting Botero's pieces. Google him. His art is repugnant.
The Calgary Art Gallery had some great modern art on display. Needless to say I took many pictures, MUhahahahah! I appreciate that we aren't supposed to.. but unless some one sets up with a tripod, proper lighting, and all that jazz, they aren't going to be making prints posters to sell for $20 in a kiosk at the mall. And the idea that I'd be taking from admissions is preposterous because I'm not going to be coming back frequently to admire the art again. They had a million cameras in the place and I wasn't asked by anyone not to take pictures so no harm no foul. I'm not a theif, I'm an appreciater. Is that a word? I'll look. lol, yeah didn't think so. But it makes sense. Let's start using it.
There had been a media display on a flat screen. Some one had set up a camera in some sort of box and recorded the scene of a small lake in front of the mountains for a year. The seasons, changed, the people came and went, everything fading in and out perfectly together while chill music played in the back with overlayed news broadcast clips. It was incredible.
When back out on the street I noticed an older gentleman carrying a painted canvas in one hand to the back of his minivan. Back on the stairs leaving the gallery, his poor wife clung desperately to the railing as she feebly descended. I take it back, he was not a gentleman.
Returned to the hostel to get ready and put on some spiffier clothes, albeit, out of season, haha. Glad the weather here has been nice because I'm still wearing the casual summer attire when I head out. Finally got to have a real conversation with my room mate from Venezuala. Good guy. Our other room mate, an engineer in his 40's is the meriam-webster dictionary definition of 'socially awkward'. Although I'm a bit left of center, this guy takes the cake. I can't help but feel a little sorry for him. However, realistically, it doesn't take that much discipline to curtail things a bit so that you're at the very least being thoughtful of other people. IE: opening the blinds in the morning because you want natural reading light while lying in bed while others are trying to sleep, now in a brightly lit room, rather than just go to the common area like a normal human being.
I got to the Epcor Center (some corporation sponsored this arts building) and went straight to will-call. "Nope, don't see your name, I suspect you aren't here to see 'One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest', are you? You want the Michael Jackson songs, just follow the yellow brick road all the way through the building and you're there!" I hoped I wouldn't be late. I was now cutting it close.
the orchestra was still warming up their strings and fingers or something like that. It dawned on me, why did I pay $67 for the best seat in the house? I'm not watching people perform, and although I'm sure the acoustics are trained to be reflected to this very spot, it's probably pretty close to still incredible even in the nose bleed section. Oh well, Michael Jackson's understudy, performing in his absense, did a little bit of dancing here and there, doing his best to be entertaining. Also impressive was that although he was realistically bass and baritone, he was managing to sing waaaayy up there. Not quite like MJ, but still pretty good to be enjoyable. The songs were great, and one I'd heard many times before but never realized was the Jackson 5.
Also impressive was the guy's interactivity with the audience. Sometimes people playfully screamed out this or that and he rolled with it, even when requested to do songs they had no way of recreating like "Bad". Seeing the REAL fans getting out into the aisles and doing the choreography from Thriller was pretty hilarious. Whether the allegations were true or not, no one can deny that Mr. Jackson left a profound impact on the music we listen to. This stuff is old but so good... I am definitely going to support the artist when I get home and steal his discography from the internet. lol! Proved to be a fun evening!
After that I met up with the Aussies to catch the final of the Aussie Rules football game at a local pub. Aussie rules were pretty easy to understand on the account that there are almost no rules and it really a free for all kind of game like our idea of rugby when I was 10 running around in the field after our soccer ball had deflated. Ended up a tie.. .There is no shoot out, no overtime, nothing. They have to play the whole match again one week later! Insane!! The guys apparently run around 40 km's a game! And now they have to do it all over again! Eric Banna from Munich and Black Hawk Down and.. well okay, The Hulk (didn't wanna mention that abomination of a film, but it's probably what he's most famous for) was on the tube momentarily while he screamed for his team, the saints. I'd been informed by one of the aussies that we were to cheer for the Magpies, and I did so with great fever, enciting several brawls! Jus kidddinnnnggg!
About to head out and stroll around, catch a few more galleries before going to the flames game tonight, then meeting up with some of the other hostellers at nightclub called Ship And Anchor. But I intend to blog this evening tomorrow before heading to Edmonton!
So I stopped by a couple more galleries. Awesome. At one, the host asked if I was an artist. Must have thought I was a struggling artist, bumming around in my cargo pants and hoodie with running shoes on, lol! "Uuuh.. Yeah. I am. Although I haven't done any art in a very long time. But yeah, I guess I am" It was like breathing the first breath in a long time. I was awakened. What a realization. i've strangled my creativity, to conform, to keep things simple, and my experiences during this trip have helped who I am emerge; be reborn.
Looking at the paintings was maddeningly inspiring. I'd stifled my creativity for so long. Why? I don't know, time, different goals, ideals, whatever. I knew what I wanted to do when I got home. Workshop, train myself in different mediums, then go to town!
I went to a few more galleries after that. Just awesome. Some of the techniques, the talent out there, incredible.
I checked my watch, looked like I should be getting back to the hostel to get ready for the hockey game. Apparently I like penis. That is a fact. My own anyway, ha! According to a buddy, cheering for the flames denotes an affinity to penis.
And what a game! Exhibition but still, a few great plays, tonnes of excitement, it was awesome! I had pretty damn great seats. Not being to a game in.. ever really, being 4 doesn't count, hahah, but I was 6 rows up from the glass, so I got to see everything.. Except what was down at the other end. I'd say row 9, right in the center is the best. Maybe when I go to the next game haha, whenever that may be!
After that I headed to 17th ave. i'd been told by some staff at a department store that it was a great place for nightlife, especially post-game. The hostel staffer had said Ship and Anchor, and it was packed as I passed on my bike, but I figured I'd tried this place called Melrose. I was glad I did. It was chill and cool, great place to be. I was on my own as usual, although a buddy from highschool had said he'd come out despite the overtime he'd been working. His girlfriend was studying for an exam anyway. I saw a table of three people having some awesome laughs who looked entertaining. Well then, that's who I'll sit with. I went and got a refill of my Lemoncillo and Sprite, double in a collins glass garnished with a lemon, fucking smashing drink! Never tried it before. Walked over "Hey, how's it going? Couldn't help but notice you guys look like good people having a hilarious time and I'm travelling on my own, may I join ya?" Like that I was in. The conversation was all over the place, but very entertaining. My new friends had to leave as one was working at 7:30 am, which worked out perfectly as my buddy arrived shortly thereafter. We shot the shit, the venue wasn't really his scene and I was neither here nor there for staying, so we went left.
Before that though, I'd noticed some guy having his bachelor party. Now I realize, it's the last night of 'freedom' generally, and the buddies feel the obligation to drag you out and get you to do all kinds of things you won't get to do again... But it's usually taken with a grain of salt by the groom, I'd think. Not this guy, he was the one out there doing all the schmoozing, the macking, I thought it was rather pathetic and struck up a conversation with a table of people based on the topic. They agreed wholeheartedly.
We went back o my buddies place briefly and he showed me some of the photography he'd been doing. It was amazing, some of the filtering and after effects he'd been using. Just awesome stuff. His photos have some 10,000 plus views on flickr. He's JUST started looking into selling some prints. I'd say high time. Sure you can do art for fun, but if people are willing to pay you for it, I don't see why not.
Then we hit a place called Morgan's where some live rock was being played. Pretty cool kind of place where people aren't pretentious. I liked it. Melrose was a bit the opposite, which was why I found my company there so good to be around. I suppose I should have known with a place named Melrose, haha!
Ended up that some of the younger Calgary flames showed up. I didn't know but my buddy has been a fan of them since god knows how long and he recognized them all. Then I got a picture with a guy who looked like a young Sting or Billy Idol, lol, I was warned by my buddy not to for the sake of a potential punch landing in my face. "Dude, you'd be surprised how much you can get away with. See this face? Hasn't been punched in many years!" Billy Idol was flattered, "that's a first! Usually I hear 'Sting'" hahah!
Okay, it's time to depart. Calgary was a good time. Seeing all the art here... definitely needed. I look forward to firing it up.
From Great Falls to Lethbridge was pleasant enough. I was looking forward to getting there. I'd heard it was a great town. I also wanted reception back on my phone. There was something important to me I had to find out about. I found out. Life's lesson learned.
I checked into my Super8 Motel. It was an additional $30 per night than the ones I'd stayed in all over the states. But what a room! It was decked out like any Best Western Hotel room. They even had shampoo and conditioner bottles! Not that I really need those.
I searched out what to do in town via google as before in the other small towns I'd been in while crossing Montana. Eureka! Venues with music! The Low Flying Penguins were doing covers at The Slice downtown. Sweet! Went and got my head shaved so I'd look like a human being again. The ingrown hair was well healed so I'd also be able to shave. I intended to get some black socks, because all I had til then were black ankle socks, and had just bought some long white socks for the running shoes, but everyone knows you can't wear white socks with a black loafer. I ended up forgetting to get the socks. Good thing I'm confident enough to pull it off! haha
But what to do til then? I was hardly hungry. Well shoot, why not see ANOTHER movie? Looked at the listings for the best theater in town. Well I'd seen the only good movie playing, so I opted for the new Resident Evil. That poor Milla Jovavich , I mean a paycheque is nice and all, but FOUR of those movies?? Can she take herself seriously anymore? I think she can do better than that. BUT they gross about a bajillion dollars each time so they'll just keep having her make them, lol! Anyway, it started at 7:10 so I had some time to kill. I got ready, and started making my way to the theater. Not having a GPS blows. All I had was a celphone. Thank heavens that for some reason that Boost Mobile phone can receive 3G data over here because without googlemaps I'd be up shitcreek without a paddle.
Pulled into the theater parking lot. Darn, 7:20.. Would the previews still be going? Wait... 7:20 listing... Easy A. Well this sorta sounded funny. The premise being that a highschool girl wishes to be noticed so she propogates and perpetuats rumors that she's getting around. At first she enjoys the attention and the popularity but later feels great regret. For a teenybopper comedy it sure was deep. It went hand in hand with certain realizations I'd had during the last third of my trip.
After the show I headed to The Slice. The Slice so aply named for selling pizza by the slice, does not actually sell pizza by the slice. I got a greek salad instead.
Funny, I was so looking forward to a Kokanee Gold! It had been so long!! Welcome my triumphant return, Kokanees!!! It tasted kinda gross. Maybe it's cause I'm used to all this light beer lol, No I'm kidding, I didn't drink much of that. But something was off. Mind you, so was the MGD the night before at a mexican restaurant in Great Falls. Did I mention the details of that night? Okay, I just did. That's all that happened in Great Falls.
My bartender was nice company and conversed about the move to Lethbridge, why, plans for the future. It was nice, but once the band was done (and the played some phenomanol rock covers!), I opted for bed. As well, I have to say, I pulled off the black shoes/white socks combo amazingly! Just wear anything with confidence and you're good. I was looking like Michael Jackson back from the dead!!... What..? Too soon? lol
The next day I continued on to Calgary, and it was gorgeous looking off into the west and seeing the snow-capped mountains. Snowboard season approaches! Finally saw my first set of beautiful autumn trees. I took some pictures.
In Calgary for a few days now, tonnes of venues to check out, a couple art museums, the CN Tower, and a Flames game on Saturday. Yeah this'll be great!
The morning started with cloud cover as far as the eye could see. The ride ahead was some 349 miles. Yes, I said MILES... Fortunately, the speed limit in this state is just a suggestion and everyone was speeding (the other 10 vehicles I saw, hehe) and highway sherriffs don't appear to patrol. I think it took me just under 4 hours to get here and that was with filling up twice.
Mother nature and I nearly got aquainted real close. A deer was crossing the road, I saw it, no problem, I honked a bit and it trotted off, and I was carrying on. OH SHIT, ANOTHER DEER! lol, I'd been looking at the one walking off and not noticed it's pal coming on the road right into my lane! No real drama, just eased off the throttle and the bike naturally slowed and the deer had plenty of time to get out of the way, but man did I laugh!
The landscape changed here and there, and satisfied me, keeping me from boredom. The light raining subsided, and the clouds became slightly more sparse, painting the land with darkened blotches as far as the eye could see. It was gorgeous against the backdrop of grey shifting clouds.
At one point I was following a horse trailer. I didn't notice but wind was blowing through it, spraying mud/manure into the oncoming lane. I passed. I was then covered in a mist of shit-mud. Gross.
I arrived in Great Falls, and pulled into my Super 8. Knowing I'd put over 10,000 kilometers on my tire, I had been checking it on arriving at new destinations. It had looked pretty thin in Glendive, but I figured I could probably make it to Calgary (Yes, I'm going to start getting serviced at Blackfoot. Done with Argyll Motorsports, I'll ride the extra 300 kilometers in the future and make a trip of it). I looked down, silver bands were exposed in the center of my tire... lol, whoopsieeeesss! I pressed down with my gloved hands, it was spongey in the center... Not much longer and I would have worn through the cables, suffering a rear tire blow out. The front was still good. It was the luggage cases in the back with the extra weight that was wearing the rear out faster. haha, I'm no moto guru, but perhaps altering the preload or suspension or something would change that. I kind of doubt it though.
I got in my room and got the laptop out. Yeah, my Boost Mobile phone gets no network signal here. Must have stopped yesterday on my way to Glendive, whoops. Called Harley to ask if they had tires as I'd been told that some Harley Davidson's were now selling BMW in smaller areas where no BMW dealers were. No luck, their tires are totally different. But they suggested I try a place called Metzger. They didn't have any tires for me and it would be 3 days before they could get an order up here.
Three days in Great Falls... Oh boy, positive side, positive side... Okay, I can go to the gym every day... And... I'll start writing my book. Yeah that's right, it's been decided. Actually it was decided as soon as someone suggested it. But now it just seemed so right, what a fantastic story I've been privileged to live. So many lessons learned, so many great experiences, fantastic people. And I'd have to ride all the way to Calgary in a day in time to see the Flames game, but I think I could make it work.
Fortunately Metzger had suggested "Steve's". And "Steve" had a tire. Not quite the right one, but good enough to get me gone. I'll get the front switched out in Calgary. It still has quite a few milimeters. Anyway, they'll have it ready by the morning. Sweet. On to Lethbridge.
I should add that a guy from the shop gave me a ride back to my motel and I'd mentioned my initial idea to go around the glacier national park and Road to the Sun. Turns out it's half closed now for construction. Wow... lucky...
As for tonight, google says Great Falls doesn't have much going on. Wish it was easier to find the community art papers, the local paper had events listed, mostly bingos. Oh well! Another night of youtube I guess, thank Super8 for good wifi.
Well, in Glendive at a Super8. Only thing super about it is the wifi somehow miraculously kicks ass!! Streaming youtube not a problem! Being out of the rain is nice too though.
Actually it only rained for half the trip from Bismarck to here. I awoke to kids screaming outside in the parking lot of the Motel 6, "Mom! It's snowiiiinnggg!!" Oh my shit... I envisioned peering out the window and seeing a slushy 6 inches anywhere that wasn't being driven over. Checked the celphone, 9:30. Not getting out of bed yet. Getting up and looking at snow wasn't going to make it go away.
What it did do was alert me to the possibility that travelling westward through the mountains and north past the glacier park may be out of the question. Seriously, it's already chilly as it is and riding in that is pretty awful. So what if getting up to altitude brough really low temperatures of almost freezing? And rain at that temperature? Best just cut my losses.
I google mapped an alternate course on my phone. Skip Billings, Helena, Missoula, and the mountains north, and just go right to Great Falls on the way to Lethbridge. Pretty sad, but I can do it in the future. Also means an extra day or two in Calgary. That'd be pretty nice. I've only been there a few times on my own, and I'm sure I could find some things to do while awaiting the Saturday exhibition Flames game.
People had said that this part of North Dakota was a dreadful bore. I thought the landscape was beautiful, and a sort of tranquil awesomeness. Nothing was ever totally flat, eventually accented with sharp hills jutting out suddenly.
Riding along, I thought back to my Star Wars trilogy analogy. Today, yesterday, and the next couple of days seemed quite anti-climatic. It dawned on me that the rebel alliance had blown up the death star some time ago, everyone danced around with the ewoks while secondary explosions went off in outer space like fireworks, and the symphony had smashed in with the all-time classic "Dun-dun-dun-duuunn-DUuuuHH!!!!" and the credits had rolled, and everyone who'd been sitting there thinking "wow, it's 1983 and I just saw THAT movie... But now, the houselights were up, and people are still sitting there, some managing to munch stale popcorn that they'd set aside an hour ago. It was really time to just walk out into the parking lot, get in their cars, and go home. That's sort of how this was feeling. And figuratively speaking, I don't want to 'go home'. However the reality is that as great as an incredible, ground shattering film is, life goes on, and it's pretty awesome sometimes too.
I pulled off for some gas in a small town, large enough for a McD's. As i was getting off my bike, some guy says "Yeah, nice day for a ride" but his tone was venomous and awful, and it seemed as if he was mocking me for riding in such weather. "Yeah, real awesome actually" I say back "Yeah, I bet" he says... I was stunned.. Was this guy actually a big fucking prick? He just looked like some tall yuppy guy... Of course it's quite likely his tone was projected accidentally and he never meant anything of it all. Some people just don't know how they sound, and how it impacts the meaning I guess. Happens to the best of us from time to time I supposed and let it go.
Grabbed a burger at McDink's, an Angus Deluxe to be exact. Really, that is not a bad burger. I can't help but be impressed. You can't argue with secret sauce, haha! But I'd made the mistake of getting a banana strawberry smoothie... In this riding weather? I went back up to the counter. The young guy working the till asked what I'd like "I don't drink coffee and I don't drink tea, but it's pretty chilly out there..." "Hot water?" He interjected. "Yeah..." I smiled "...That'd be great" Really cool.
Sometimes you smile at the universe and the universe smiles back... I've tried to do that this trip and I think that's why I've had so much good fortune. Very shortly after getting back on the highway, the drizzle turned to misting, then from misting to overcast, and before I knew it, my suit was drying out, the clouds were parting, and it was sunny. As well, the earth all around me opened up into badlands like those of Medicine Hat back home.
Another beautiful day of riding. And now, some facebookin' while I take in some new music on youtube.
The ride from Wisconsin Rapids to Minneapolis was a chilly one. And it's only going to get chillier. That's definitely a contributing factor to me being under the weather. Boy oh boy do I miss the days of riding from city to city on the interstate in only my t-shirt and cargo shorts. It's now at the point that in the evening riding a far distance to go out anywhere is nearly not an option. Nearly, haha! I'm sure I can bare it a little bit longer.
The Twin Cities were quite surprising. Apparently the population of both cities combined is only a few hundred thousand. But the surrounding counties contain some 3 million people or something like that. The buildings although much fewer in number were still very nice, some illuminated in different ways later in the evening.
I arrived in my couchhost's neighborhood and after being guided to a parking spot beside their Kawasaki, was lead inside to find a newly purchased collection of vinyl and two turntables. Very cool... The plan was to hit a place called Lee's Liquor Lounge for the CD release of a local Rock-a-billy group called Reckless Ones preceeded by their fave indie band, Phantom Tails. Also in the mix were the Fuck Knights. We had time to kill which allowed us to venture through the Gardner Outdoor Sculpture Park. Some really good stuff was there. Same with some really stuff. Same with some really crappy stuff. One thing was a bronze statue of a man chocking his chicken... Don't ask questions. A large spoon hovered above a pond with a cherry on it. A section of turf was surrounded by benches, each with their own thought-provoking statement on it. Frank Gehry had a massive coy fish made out of glass panes. I had no idea he was Canadian. Maybe he's not. But the bio said he was inspired by a time he lived in Toronto.
As we crossed the ped-way back over the freeway, the dusk sky was perfect for shots of the basillica, the church, and the city sky line. It was gorgeous right then and there.
I'd read about 112 Eatery downtown in GQ many moons ago in an article on late night dining and where it's best. This was one of those places, open til 1am and serving til close. Of course, we were early, and me slummed up in cargo pants and a hoody really fit the part. Pretentious people filled every chair and bar stool save two. My host and I sat down there. The bartender came up, "Are you the guy that just called about two spots?" Well after being told by the host that there was no room for us for quite some time, obviously my answer was "Yeah, that's us". The food was a la carte, and turned out to be everything I'd hoped for. Still unnamed, I had the bartender make my signature drink... 1/2 oz Galliano, 1/2 oz Cointreau, topped off with half orange, half sprite over ice. BAM, what a drink! The appie was solid, so were the sandwiches, and the dessert, fabu. What a place. Turned out our bartender Jim was a part of a local rider's group, the Moto-Mutz, website by the same name. If you're reading this now Jim, thanks for the great service.
Lee's Liquor Lounge was a divey kind of place where I would fit in perfectly. Well, almost perfectly, had I been wearing 50's era clothing. A couple dozen peoeple filled the place wearing sock-hop-ready attire. It was pretty cool to see. Not sure how many use brill cream in their hair all the time and how many were just dressed up for the Reckless Ones that share the same look, but it was welcome to see eitherway.
Phantom Tails were awesome. Rock, alternative, electronic, no drums, just a drum-machine being manipulated by a dude while another rocked two synthesizers, and the lead singer was on lead guitar all back up by bass. Very sweet. At 10 bucks, the CD was a steal.
Fuck Knights were on next. Pretty decent, sort of a wannabe The Clash sound... but entertaining. Didn't buy the CD.
Reckless Ones put on a pretty good show. Some idiots started romping around and smashing into the sockhop girls who were just doing their swing dancing. Gladly, the lead singer got people to come down, "There's ladies dancing, fellahs", No kidding... And I got a free CD of them just for paying cover. Everybody was getting a ticket stub redeemable at the merchandize table. Sweetness!
Turned out my host was friends with Phantom Tails so after the show we headed over there for a bit. It wasn't a pounding afterparty or anything, just a few friends hanging out and it was nice and chill. At about 3 my host and I headed home where I was shown a brief example of dj'ing with the turntables until the neighbors came and knocked on the door, lol
The next morning I was awoken by the sun laser-beaming me in the eye through the blinds at 9:30. Oi, that's not enough sleep. Oh well, might as well make the best of the day, and my host took me to a braekfast diner. They called it The Greasy Spoon but I think it was called Red Box Diner or something, haha, or maybe greasy spoon is slang for greasy diner? I dunno, but it was pretty damn good!
After discussing Griff the Invisible and the involvment of a cast member from True Blood, I had no choice but to watch episode one on DVD! Well I had some time to spare, and was curious to have a taste of some TV that I may actually tolerate. And truthfully, it wasn't bad. Interesting premise for a show about vampires, that's for sure. I don't think I'll follow it. No time really, but still, cool.
I said my goodbyes and started off for Fargo, nearly plowing into the ground on the on-ramp, lol! I'd taken it too slow and was leaning in on 2nd waaaay too hard. Gave it some throttle and corrected and saved myself from some embarrassing scene. The rolling prairies and low hills westward were charicatures of those in a children's book. Round, flowing, boldly coloured, and pleasant to look at, and although it was a chilly ride yet again, it was a nice enough one. Leading the Audi A4 was fun too. I didn't see a single highway patrolman.. everyone was doing at least 85, clearly, speeding is tolerated in these parts where it's so far to the next city. Fine by me.
Got to my couchhost's place in Fargo and had yet another home-cooked meal! It was vegan, but what mattered was that it tasted alright, haha! I introduced them to the Phantom Tails from the night before and to The Do, and my host, her boyfriend, and I conversed for a while before going out downtown. It was decided that we should just crash at his place so I moved all my gear there. Slumming again (I'm getting really comfortable in these broken-in clothes, lol) we headed out. Fargo downtown IS pretty small, but due to the 2 universities, it's... Well, I was impressed by the numbers of people out. Every venue was packed. The first stop was JL Beers with so many beers on tap.. and some pretty decent burgers too.
Then it was off to Dempsey's Irish Pub. Coincidentally, it was a dude's birthday from the irish band playing. I helped myself to a piece of cake. Super sugarry! Then I had 3 more pieces. My host's boyfriend had a massive spoonful of icing that other people had been scraping off onto the tray, lol
We needed a place to sit so I introduced us to 3 people sitting in a massive booth and we were in! It was so funny, "Hey Andrea, Yvette, and Jason, I'm Michael, and this is Tiara, and Brad".."Andrew" he says with out skipping a beat, lol "Oh my god man! You said Andrew!? I thought it was Brad! Maybe cause I was thinking 'beard'" as he had one "it's okay man, happens all the time" Well when Andrew # 2 joined us, I wasn't going to forget his name. Soon another of my host's friends joined and we were sorta taking over the booth.... slowly but surely!
The band was phenomanal. Just what the doctor ordered. The fiddler was great. As good as the guy from Green Mill... well... different style of music. Who knows how he could bust it out. But what he did play was really good.
Then we headed over to some massive nightclub. i couldn't believe the place. Just packed... But I refrained from dancing and opted for conversation with my hosts and their friends, and at one point the Bison mascot was making his rounds of the bar. I lean in and pat the mascot on the chest for a pic. There was a BOOB!!! OOPS! lol... Fortunately it wasn't a really hard pat. Explains why the mascot on the TV was like 6 and a half feet tall and was now just over 5 and a half, even with the massive foam head. I guess I shouldn't have assumed it was a guy.
From there we went over to a big sports bar downtown. This place was also packed with people being sociable. Was introduced to a new drink.. "Rootbeer" Nope, no rootbeer. I was amazed! An oz of vodka, and oz of Galliano, and then coca-cola... and it tastes like rootbeer! No booze taste! Dangerous! I took it easy though. It's the home stretch.. I have a cold, no need to get crazy. Well... Maybe in Lethbridge or Calgary... We'll see haha!
After that it was back to my host's boyfriends to wind the night down while listening to some acoustic played by them both.
Another long, cold, ride today. In Bismarck now. It's 9:30 pm, at Starbucks using wifi before going back to my motel. I saw The Town earlier... very well done film... Ben Affleck deserves some recognition. This is not just another Gigli, lol. Nor Mallrats, lol.. Well Mallrats was pretty cool actually. I reneg.
Just to make sure I'm not missing out on anything (Just feel like chillaxing, getting a good night's sleep and shaking this cold actually), googled events for tonight in Bismarck. Nothing is jumping out at me. I'm sure it's a nice town, but this is probably for the best. Hmm, let's check the balance in my chequing account online actually... alright, I'm doing okay, but no need to spend money for the sake of it at this point.
Well, time to upload this and hit the hay. The girls here at Starbucks are giving me evil eyes because it's 15 minutes past closing.. Sheesh!! Some people! Kidding hehe
On the way out of London, I toured through the Western University Campus. One of Canada's oldest and most prestigious schools, it had some amazing buildings onsite. Thanks to my buddies Aaron and Martin for suggesting I see it.
The landscape from London westward was again, breathtaking.
The border crossing, Not so much. Actually it took my breath away how thorough or rather anal they were being. I take security pretty seriously. Smuggling of illegal fruit, less so. I waited in the queue (and there were about 5 agents working lines) and it still took about 40 minutes. Nuts. However, after all that, watching other people opening trunks for the scrutiny of border patrol, I was asked a series of moronic questions to make me nervous including "Have you ever been fingerprinted for the purpose of criminal charges or similar reasons?" "Umm.. not that I know of?" "How can you not know or not." "Well, I'm just generally a good person." She must have seen the sincerety in my eyes because she gave back my passport and waved me on. Phew! No questions about my need for speed!
Even so, I've really curtailed the speeding. Not interested in any more potentially negative consequences.. although DAMN it's so bloody fun!
I neared Grand Rapids. After this I could go even farther west and hit Grand Haven where I was to meet up with a dude from Powerslide. However, that would make my trip to Chicago the next day even longer. Checked my powerslide messages via the celphone... NOTHING? Gee whiz, thanks MDubStyliez... So I cut my losses and stayed in Grand Rapids. I mean I'd been told Grand Haven would be a lot of fun, and I had somewhere to stay, BUT now I had nowhere to stay (except a motel) AND I had developed a case of the sniffles from Saturday night on the packed, body-to-body dance floor at Jack's in London. So really, I just needed some rest anyway.
Hunkered down in a Motel 6, and had a nice long nap. Woke up and looked up a gym, maybe I could sweat it out? My uvula was swollen like a cow utter and my nose was quickly clogging up. Nasty business. Ran over to the gym after a healthy late night supper of gas station food, lol, then got myself a 14 day free trial at the gym.... lol! Finished up the last of my couch requests, now all settled all the way to Edmonton, the last stop before home. Wow, to have come this far, this long, so many great experiences.. I have been so blessed. Oops, while wondering why the trip was so long today, and while planning out the next day, it dawned on me that I was supposed to have gone to Detroit that night, and Grand Haven the next. Ah shucks, now I'll have two days in Chicago rather than one!
Lucky too, as Chicago proved to be a great city worth spending more time in. And apparently Detroit isn't that entertaining anymore. Shame. I wanted to go freestyle and have a 'battle' like I'd seen on that M&M movie, 8 Mile. I mean I have this bombing ass hoodie from Gap that really hasn't been properly utilized yet.
The ride through the remainder of Michigan and into Illinois was also gorgeous. The country side, all the corn, everything, it's lovely. Wish I wasn't just wearing flat spots into the center of my tires but what choice do I have. Oh that reminds me, finally got low enough on my bike to touch boot to pavement. Thank god for zinc sliders... I was taking an on ramp, one with a 20mph limit, but I was going a great deal faster, down in 2nd gear, and had the bike right over. Sure my foot positioning wasn't that great and was out a bit far which is probably why I hit pavement, but it was still nice. I think I'm gonna take my bike to the track a bit next year, get better at handling and get some of the demons out of me so I don't feel like speeding around on the highways so much.. Although maybe it'd only be feeding them to get better on the track?
Checked into the Hostel International building right downtown in an awesome 7 story building. It was practically a university dorm, so clean, 4 bunks to a room, a shower, a bathroom, sink, so sweet! And free tours and activities most days and nights! Best hostel ever! Not to mention I didn't get any parking tickets for just leaving my bike in the alley. Massive bonus points.
I took so many pics in Chicago. Apparently it's the city of architecture. Well, I'm no historian, but I really liked looking around.
That night I met up with a coffee host over in the hippster area of town on Milwaukee at a Costa Rican restaurant called Irazu where all the good stuff was pointed out, and I was introduced to plantains.. ya know, the cousin to the banana? Always seen those funny green looking banana things in the produce section but never knew what they were about. Well, grill those up, and WHAM, you've got a great starch side (I think starch...) It was like a cross between a sweet potatoe and a banana, so delish!
Walked around a bit after that, but my host had to get up at 5am to do a training run for an upcoming sprint-triathalon. They'd come in 13th out of 90 in their age group the year previous with very little training, and were hoping to do better this year after following a better regime. Best of luck to them!
I ventured off on my own in search of some jazz music. I'd done some googling and Tuesday night looked like a slow night. M Lounge looked promising and had a trio playing. Two other places had regular Tuesday night performers going on, but I thought M Lounge seemed the best candidate. It proved to not be. Great venue, very cool, chic, but the music.. horrible. I won't say more, I don't want to offend the vocalist who had a great voice, but the over-dramatic theatrics in the facial expression, over the top. Kind of killed it for me. The fact that it seemed like they were just singing their favorite covers and telling their bassist and pianist what pages of music to play was also a turnoff. Didn't seem like the group played together very often, or even had the same goals in mind. Either way, it was back to the hostel for a good night's sleep.
Oh right, I'd stopped in a CVS Pharmacy hoping to find a wonder drug developed in Canada called Cold-FX. This stuff is an immuno-booster and really helps fight out colds. Well, they don't sell it in the states I guess. The pharmacyst was however able to recommend some sort of drink mix. "And this works?" I ask. "Well, all the college kids get it." Oh my shit, are you for real? I'm not asking for a lesson in pop-culture, bub... I want a professional opinion based on experience as well as the reading of medical literature that tells what will work. I think my dad who is a pharmacy guru will find some humor in this story.
So yeah, I made my magic college-kid juice and drank it and went to bed hoping to clear up a bit.
The next morning I went on a free architecture tour of downtown. We saw a few different buildings, fairly informative, a bit too much for me. Although it was interesting to learn that a skyscraper is simply a building built on steel girders rather than built where the walls support the buidling, which greatly increased the height they could potentially build, some of the minutea of information was too much and we moved too slow and didn't see enough. I'd had a list of buildings and outdoor sculpture art put together from Gentleman Quarterly magazine that I was supposed to see. Of course that was still on my netbook so I'd have to go back to the hostel to get it. Which I didn't want to do. I'd noticed a couple of my fellow hostellers had responded well to some of the jokes I cracked during the tour (haha, I know, I can't help myself though, always have to be the class clown), and we'd chatted intermittantly. So when the tour ended, I noticed they were just hanging around looking lost. So I invited them to join me on a walk around downtown looking at more buildings. Seeing a third straggler travelling alone and knowing what it's like to be on your own and wish you weren't, I invited them too. They also wanted to do the tour of the Hancock building, the second tallest in Chicago, so we ventured off.
We'd stopped and grabbed some cookies from a gourmet cookie store. Really good stuff. One of our party had left to get ready for a train departure at 5pm and another wasn't a big fan of sweets so two of us split a 'Buy 6 Get 2 Free' deal. But I really didn't want 4 cookies. I'd taken nibbles out of all of them before we stopped for sandwiches at Brian's Deli where they serve all kinds of meats on all kinds of breads. Pretty decent.
After that, I was stuffed... what to do with the cookies? Quickly as we maneuvered downtown admiring the greatness of the architecture, I spotted a homeless girl, her head hanging low over her cup. I pulled out the remainder of my sugar cookie and held it out in front of her cup, she took it and murmerd a 'thanks' as she looked up. I smiled and kept on walking. Then another homeless guy, "Do you like cookies?" "Sure I do!" so he got the double chocolate. The third homeless guy didn't want any cookies. Musta been diabetic. But it wasn't long before the cookies were gone.
The Hancock tour was decent, informative, but narrated by David Schwimmer... *Pukes*... He can't act and he can't do a sincere job of narration. That didn't take away from how amazing the sites were from that high though. So gorgeous.
While down on the 'Magnificent Mile' where all the real snooty shops are, like Tiffany's, we goofed around a bit. Women trembled in fear as I meandered through Victoria Secret with my crew. See I developed a nasty in-grown hair (seemed I just fell apart Sunday with getting sick and having an ingrown hair severe enough to make me not shave for a couple days, haha), so I've got a few days growth, I'm slumming in my cargo shorts, what's now to be referred to as 'my lucky shirt', and a button up, and probably looked like some wierd pervie. Such a laugh!
The afternoon was getting late and I had to meet a coffeehost, so I parted with my company, exchanged some numbers and facebook contact info and headed off to find my barbershop. Well the first place that I'd seen on my phone's google maps was closed even though they advertised to be open later than this. So I checked the next nearest place and gave them a call. They'd be open. Off to Alfredo's it was.
Turns out Alfredo has been in this place for 50 years cutting hair! The likes of priests, bishops, police, mobsters, and even celebrities such as Francis Ford Coppola! No kidding! A real artisan, my head was looking sexy as ever! He told me some stories and pointed me in the direction of a couple of news articles written about him. At one point he lost 4 customers in one day due to some gang war where they were shot and killed. Not while getting their hair cut mind you, but still, pretty exciting stuff. Check him out if you're ever in the Windy City (named so for the big air promises and dreams of politicians long ago, not for the air velocity) 833 N State Street. Tell him Michael the Touring Motorcyclist from Canada sent you. He'll have no idea what you're talking about. lol
Met up with my coffeehost in the same area as the last, which proves the coolness of Milwaukee street in my opinion. The place was called Wine Bin Cafe. I came in and told them I was meeting someone. They seated me beside a woman sitting at the bar who was in the restroom. Shortly thereafter she comes out. I was not the husband she was waiting for! Whoopsies... The hosting staff really dropped the ball there, and even told a story of a time two sets of blind dates showed up both named John and were seated with the wrong women. One John was a real cool dude. Other John was a stiff-dead bore. At some point it was figured out that there was a mixup but after being so far in the meal, it seemed a bit rude to swap so they continued things, where the one woman had to suffer with Boring John. Cool John even had the class to send dessert over to the table. My kind of guy!
After admiring some art, I received a call from my host. I answered and looked around. They'd been seated on the patio while I was in the restroom!
We shared an appetizer of bruchetta with a variety of pastes, had entries of fish and watermelon/tomatoe salad (I had the salad.. after a big sandwich and the equivalent of two cookies, plus all the bruschetta I was near stuffed), then split the most amazing sorbetto and gellatto... Decadent. You must try this place if you're in the area.
I'm reminded that the night before I stumbled into a winery with a really nicely put together interior, including art by the owners wife.
I got a text from my hostel friends. They were about to have some pizza and were then looking for some jazz. Seeing as I too was looking for a REAL jazz experience (mostly to make up for the abomination from the night previous), we decided we'd meet up, and my coffeehost was gracious enough to offer a ride.
We found them eating deepdish pizza at Exchequer on Wabash. It looked really good but I had to refuse the offer of a slice. On the way, one of the hostellers decided to call it an early night. Also, my coffeehost decided that they should get home for an early morning commute to work. So they dropped off the last hosteller at Green Mill Cocktail Lounge which I followed them too.
This place was... I'm nearly speachless. Formerly a 'speak-easy' back in the old days, and an occassional hangout for Al Capone, filled with deep, dark, colours, and a real sexy feel.. this was what I had been looking for. A latin/classical jazz filled the venue as 4 incredibly talented musicians played for us, occassionally accompanied by a 5th on a clarinet. You could tell often that they were just jamming, just improvising based on the guitarists melody. They all did solos, the violinist, the guitarists, the celoist, it was magical... Any real music appreciater would have loved it, no matter what genre they liked. ALFONSO PONTICELLI and SWING GITAN were the talented people on stage. I guess they play every Wednesday according to the Green Mill Jazz website.
We got up to leave the venue after discussing how to get back. Do I leave my hostel friend on the El Train for 30 minutes back into town at 1 in the morning and meet at the destination stop near the hostel? Or do we ride back on my bike. We both preferred the latter. Outside it had been raining cats and dogs and was now still spittling. Taxi it would be!
Back at the hostel, i downloaded their pictures from the evening at the Green Mill (their camera took amazing low light pictures while mine sucks a mule's arse), and went our seperate ways. A few hours later, I got up and taxi'd back to get my bike before it would be ticketed and towed. Brutal!
I had one more thing to do before leaving Chicago; Burt's Place. Apparently, according to Dan K from Sport Touring.net, this is THE BEST pizza in the entire country. I had to find out. Way north in a suburb of Chicago, I pulled up to see a sign of operating hours. Didn't look hopeful, but a neon sign said "Pizza Open". I was about to dismount my steed when a dude came out with a pizza in his hands, "Hey dude, is THAT the best pizza in the country or what?" "I don't know" "What do you mean you don't know?" "I've never eaten here before, I saw this place on TV and wanted to try it" "Yeah no kidding! i was told to come here! Do they sell by the slice?" "No, they don't and they're closing soon. I can't finish this whole thing by myself" "Okay, can I buy a slice for $5?" "No, I can't eat more than half, let's split it" So we go back inside. Burt's old lady is not pleased.. "What are you doing?" "Hi I just ran into my buddy Eddy from our old fraternity, Kappa Thi, and we were hoping to sit down" "We close at 1:30, you have ten minutes!" My watch read 1:05. We had more than ten minutes in my humble opinion based on simple math.
We chatted and enjoyed some pretty damn good pizza. One has to try and suspend their pallette's familiarity to the likes of Pizza Hut or Boston Pizza, etcetera.. That stuff has it's place, and is good, but this was a much more refined taste. Less sweet, more natural tasting, it was really quite good. Best in the country, I don't know... I guess I haven't had enough pizza. Thanks so much to Dan K for texting me the info and instructions. And thanks to fate for enabling me to have some.
Even more interesting, after discussing the fate of the economy, as my new friend was hugely interested in finance and even owned their own website and company (based on what I don't quite remember), it was suggested that I self-publish an E-book via the internet. Genius! Something I'd not even though of! So it looks like that's the best way to go about this, if I do go about it.. But I think I should. During this trip I've been inspired to be more creative when I get home, and perhaps this will be my first creative outlet.
I should also mention that my company was also travelling, one month with Jet Blue airlines for $600, any where you want in North America... crazy deal. They were flying around to different cities taking in the sites and sounds and enjoying different venues, and foods, much like myself. Very cool.
I rode on towards Wisconsin Rapids to stay with a couchhost there. The landscape again was gorgeous. It probably sounds redundant by now, my descriptions of what I see, and for that I apologize... but sometimes things must be seen rather than described. I will say though that the leaves are starting to turn, and I look forward to the time in a week or so when the foliage lining the roads will look like the crayola colourings of wildly imaginitive kindergarten children, all reds, browns, oranges, and yellows... I will definitely be taking pictures then.
My couchhost was great, and enjoying trying different recipes, had even put together some polish food. It was quite good. We're always our own worst critic :) Tried some Czech beer, really tasty stuff. Amidst some very entertaining conversation, we headed out into the town in their Prius Hybrid to see the amazing sites of the area, which included "The Bar-Muda Triangle"... three bards on two intersecting streets. Nice! But still having a bit of the sniffles and in need of finishing the blog for the last few days before a very busy and awesome weekend in Minneapolis and Fargo, we opted to not go out boozing.
We did however go on to see a grotto (not quite like the Playboy mansions grotto, lol) and meditation area constructed by Catholics. Really creepy in the dark, all the white Mother Mary statues looming in the bushes and trees... but still really intersting. I'm sure it's gorgeous in the day and am appreciative of it.
Even cooler though was coming back out to the parking lot and seeing a massive chalk drawing of the United States by some school kids. It was requested I trace my whole entire journey by foot on this massive map, which I did. As I walked the path I could feel myself going through the different emotions and feelings and being reminded of so much I'd seen and done, and who I'd met.. This put everything in perspective. I've really gone a long way, and have been gone a long time. So glad I got to do that. I couldn't help but linger in some spots thinking back to my exceptionally great times there.
Back at their apartment, we carved their very first pumpkin. I've done it a few times in my day and taught the lesson. Oh this was after seeing a massive toad outside! Okay, not 'massive' but bigger than the frogs I used to try catching as a kid. Then a fellow couchsurfer from the area showed up after a day of picking apples, and brought two, one for each of us. I think I shall have mine now!
Very shortly I'll be departing. I've been left here alone while my couchhost went off to work. A testement I think to the generosity and trust of this CS community as well perhaps to my trustworthiness I'd like to think.
I caught up on the emails and did some laundry at the motel. Being as the drying cycle had an hour to go, I set my alarm on my celphone and had a snooze. I bolted up to the buzzing-ringing-vibrato of my phone. I had been out stone-cold... I musta needed that. I stood up feeling pretty bogged down. Hmmm, maybe I shouldn't go out. I mean really, I'd rather have energy for this weekend, especially considering my ride through Albany didn't look promising. Maybe I'd just be a slug and take in yet ANOTHER movie!
Headed to the nearby Regal Cinemas to catch Machete, but after grabbing my laundry and laying it out to dry (because it was still humid and warm.. sonsabitches!) I was running behind. Well, what else looked promising... "Vampires Suck?... Sounds lame... Scott Pilgrim vs The World?... Could be interesting... One for Scott Pilgrim"
I have to say, it was a good deal better, and definitely cooler than I expected. I can't say I could relate to our protagonist, Scott... Had I not left highschool, and my parents' home and joined the army and become a man and ya know.. lost my virginity, I would have probably ended up just like him. But thank the good Lord, I did not. And I didn't really agree with some of his choices in the movie. He seemed a little self-serving. Other than that, the visuals were AMAZING! Like watching an anime movie and games like street fighter with live people... Not that I'm into that stuff, no really! I swear! hahaha... Worth seeing it though if you like wierd indy sorts of films with massive budgets for effects. Quite funny. AND, it takes place in Canada! No kidding! What I liked is that it didn't play up the "we're in Canada" thing.. no stupid accents or anything like that. It was just a movie for North Americans about North Americans starring North Americans.
Speaking of Americans, I'm now an honorary citizen.... Yeah, I've totally aclimatized to the hot weather of the southern states. My good gawd, the weather this far north is awful!! 20' celsius!? FREEZING!! Riding in it was even worse! Bundled up in a sweater and longsleeve button up, I was still cold riding to the theater! Didn't take me too long at all, lol
Got my head buzzed this morning before leaving for Montreal. I asked the guy if Albany was fun to go out in, being as he was a barber not much older than myself. "Oh yeah, great place!" "What day is it today?" I ask "Uhh.. Thursday" he replies somewhat stupified by my stupification... (did that make sense?) "Is Wednesday a good night downtown?" "You mean tonight?" "No, Wednesday, I wanna know if I missed out not going out last night" "Oh... yeah, it woulda been good, you missed out!" Shucks... Ah well, I clearly needed some Z's.
The ride north was gorgeous despite the coolness of the crisp air sneaking into my suit through any opening. Thank Germany for electric handle-bar warmers. The forest around me rose into rocky hills and small mountains, which then became rolling fiels of various colours, and under the darkening clouds, it looked quite nice. Nice enough to make me finally pull over and take pictures again. That coupled with the fact that my couchhost isn't even free til 8, leaving me with all afternoon to get into Montreal, helped though.
It was nice to be riding IN Canada again, just felt like being home. Too bad as soon as I got across the border, the roads turned into lumpy shit. Doesn't say much for our grand nation.
Coming into Montreal though left me ecstatic. Something about Montreal, it's energy, the fact that is feels somewhat European, the fact that it's our fashion hub, and that it's fun.... I supposed these were all contributing factors for my elation (hope that's the right word, no wifi to check meriam-webster.com)
Called my boss. Seems the problem was a guy showed up to work for me without there being any paperwork for him to work for me. Uh ooohhh.. got three free shifts worked for meeeee!! lol, I mean seriously, this guy had tentatively agreed to work these dates back in February, then doesn't return a single one of my calls before I leave, forcing me to use vacation time and then get another person to work three shifts later on... So now what? I dunno.. we'll sort it out when I get home. He also said there's some nightshifts where no one is covering for me and I have no vacation time. I've got it all accounted for on paper sitting on my kitchen counter back home.
Went from the Tim Hortons, a national icon of Canada, over to Starbucks because Timmies doesn't have wifi yet. And may never. Different clientelle base I guess.
Got in touch with the couchhost, thank god, not a recurrence of Philadelphia. Although as I'd said, my coffeehost had been pleasant, the hostel and the motel left much to be desired.
Travelling Saint Dennis to my host's place (Or perhaps Beubien), I was reminded further of why I love Montreal. Gritty, dirty, sexy, artsy, ALIVE! Small bars lined the street, people were all about, even for a Thursday. A dim red light emitted from an open window where music spilled out into the street; a duet between a DJ and a woman on a harp, awesome! Arriving at my hosts place, I was also introduced to their room mate, Frank, a sexologist. That's sort of like a sexual psychologist. The three of us discussed what to do. They had no plans set aside, so I suggested we call my backup couchhost who had said something about some Finnish band being in town and playing 'rock'... Sure why not was the conclusion. We would miss out on the DJ/Harp duo, hopefully for something better...
We arrived down near Saint Joseph (Yes, all streets in montreal are named after saints.. as if every Father Tom, Dick, and Harry has witnessed 3 miracles during his service.. isn't that what it takes? I dunno, but there's a lotta saints), and had to ask around. They'd never heard of Sala Rosa... Was this a cruel joke aimed at a poor unfortunate anglophone pig?! Apparently not, we found the venue. I treated our guests and we got inside. The opening band had just finished. I texted the backup. "I'm up front, short hair, white shirt, black vest, lots of room for you guys"... We made our way up the right, just as the band started coming onto the stage. "I'm 6'4", that'd be so rude of me to stand right in front lol, we'll meet up after" I mean seriously.. the stage was 3 feet off the ground, maybe 4... It just wouldn't be right. Her tall friend with the hat was one tall dude enough hehe
The band, named The Do began some sweet-ass experimental alternative, rock, electric-infused sound... The vocalist, a lovely sweet-voiced girl much akin to Nina Persson of The Cardigans... I knew I would like this... And sure enough, I did.. powerful lyrics, powerful sound, a real passion for what they'd created, it showed on stage. Especially when they broke out into a torrent of instrumental sound, both sung, and manipulated through the pedals. I couldn't help but think back to greats such as Sonic Youth and Bjork as well. Really great show.
Afterwards I met the backup and their friends. My couchhost and Frank had to work and go to appointments early in the morning. Would I offend my host by staying out with the backup? Only way to know was to ask. It was definitely alright, so that's what I did! After purchasing a copy of The Do's CD of course. I learnt after hearing The Pieces that sometimes it's tough to find mp3's for small artists in order to steal them off the net. Sometimes we have to break down and support them the old fashioned way.. with money. On the way out the backup asked if I would mind coming over early so they could copy the CD... Moments later we met the drumme and the bassist outside as they mingled and had a smoke. I complimented the bassist on his manipulation of his pedals to create the awesome instrumental song we witnessed, and then said "I liked it so much, I even bought your CD!.." Pulling it from my pocket to reveal it. "... Unlike SOME people!" I pointed my thumb at the backup, who shouted with embarassment causing him to laugh, and then we were on the road to a pub called Vice Versa that served craft beer to meet some of their friends who were playing a band practice earlier.
The backup was a trapeze artist in Cirque De Soleil (you meet such cool people when you couch surf) and proved to be hilarious fun when we found a tiny old Fiat for sale, posing all over it and taking pics.. Not quite as interesting as the shots taken with my Louisville host while with the bronze man on the bench, no not nearly that entertaining, but still quite fun, hahah!
From there it was on for a real Montreal delicasse, Poutine... Fries, with gravy... and of course, not complete without curds of cheese.. melted. But where we went, the menu contained more than a dozen other concoctions, spin-offs of the traditional classic poutine, such as pepperoni and onion.. with the poutine. Actually not too bad. I'd had poutine before but never like this. Still, not a great before bed snack.
In the morning, my couchhost said goodbye and went off to school. I slept some more. What a comfortable hide-a-bed! No joke, great blankets too. Around 11 I woke up and Frank was up making crepes and sausage. Fantastic way to start the day.
Loaded up the bike and headed for Toronto. 543 kilometers later, I had arrived, checked into my hostel, and learned that this was the perfect weekend to be in Toronto... What a fluke... "What's going on tonight?" I ask the girl working the front desk of the hostel "Well, our coordinator is sick so nothing" Then behind me I hear something like "blah blah blah Toronto Independant Film Festival"... "Uhh.. why didn't you mention the Film Festival?" "Oh yeaaah!! Sorry, didn't think you'd be into that!" "Because I ride a motorcycle?" "Ha.. yeah.." So I get the info, look into what movies are playing, right away a movie with Robert Deniro and Edward Norton piques my interest. Another with Sam Worthington (Avatar, Terminator Salvation) also grabs me. Sometimes the stars actually show up for their premiers. I checked the calender and unfortunately none of those shows were going to be playing while I was in town for the night.
Originally I'd planned to do Montreal Thursday night, Kingston Friday night, and then Toronto Saturday night, and then London Sunday Night. BUT a buddy from Toronto I met while in Kelowna last summer told me about what's called a Zero-Week College Party in London at Western University Campus... Google it, you'll see results about parties out of control and raging riots, lol... better make sure my bike is parked safe! So I'd be leaving Toronto Saturday to get to London a day early.
Also, tragically, as I mentioned in an earlier post, a new friend from Fort McMurray who was actually also one of my first references died in a car crash in July. He was from Toronto and his grave site was here so I was invited to come and see it with his mother and his best friend on the Saturday morning. So the plan changed to getting up early from Kingston on Saturday morning to be at the Mount Pleasant Cemetary for 8:30 am. As I left Montreal though I realized getting up early was foolish and I should get into Toronto. It's funny how things work, and have worked for me. I mean riding into town and finding out one of the best international film fests is going on? That's big. As well, I can't help but wonder if every great and amazing thing would have transpired just has it is, had it not been for Viktor's great reference for me... Sure I have other good ones.. but his was one of the first... Who knows.. Despite this, I could tell from the very brief time that I knew him, that he was a great guy, and deserved to have me stop by while I was in the neighborhood.
Rounded the corner from the hostel on the way to the Box office and saw volunteers from TIFF in orange shirts and asked about the box office. But it was now closed! My only chance was to wait in a "Rush Line" at a venue, one of the many theaters in the area showing the indie films, for a seat to be available. "Well what's playing here?" They told me a few titles and two stuck out, "Easy Money" and "Griff the Invisible"... So I stood in line. Moments later a dude walked up and asked what film I was waiting for. "I don't care" He tells me he's had a rough day and doesn't feel like seeing Griff the Invisible and just wants to get rid of his ticket. So I bought it, full price, not into haggling or screwing a dude over who's just given me a ticket to pass the line and go directly to the front of the waiting horde. My first every ticket scalping!! YEaaaaah!!!!
Sitting down, it turned out I was beside a woman known as Bonnie Gordon, who as it would turn out, is a world renowned creator of dessert. She is known worldwide as the foremost in cake decorating from Canada and has her own school. Google her, such a cool meeting of chance.
Griff the Invisible has a synopsis that reads similar to that of Batman... But it is NOT your typical superhero movie.. In fact, in my opinion, it wasn't about him wanting to be a superhero at all. Really, it was a tragic, yet incredibly touching love story about two people, a little left of center (okay, drastically off their rockers!), who find eachother, and realize they're the only ones that will work for one another. A beautiful message. What's better is the director and 3 of the main cast members were there too and held an interview after. The series was done by David Leon, and the main character was some dude from True Blood, some TV Vampire series... Very cool to be a part of this, and very fortunate. Earlier I'd stated that I didn't really believe in fate, that it's our perspective that tells us things are falling in place for certain reasons, perhaps under the guide of something else. And then later I'd state that a chain of incidents lead us to where we are and sometimes seem to have done so for a reason... But I can't help but think that if our pasts were guided, then before they become our guided past, they are our guided futures....? Paradoxical? Maybe, maybe not. Even so, I felt like I was to see that movie. It's the second time on this trip that my eyes have been opened to the reality that I was setting up my future in a direction not suited for me, and I'm thankful for that.
I left the viewing and across the street the clubs on Richmond had started picking up and people were lining up like crazy. I walked over and asked the doorman the dress code "Well you can get in when you change your sandals" "NOBODY FUCKS WITH MY JESUS SHOES!" I screamed and thrust him into a wall.. lol, just kidding, "No, no.. I'm going to change". A short while later I was back in line. I looked around. A lot of young faces. I say to the same doorman, "Dude, everyone here looks 18, is this an underage club?" "No, it is 19 and over though, and it's a younger crowd" "Oh right.. I forgot we're not in the states... So where shall I go for people our age? I'm 29... " "Oh yeah, I hear ya, we have a small group of people that come in, but I'd say go to King St" "Okay, what venue" "Cobra..." "Cobra?? Dude... if I get stabbed I'm coming back here with the cops" He laughs "No no, it's good"
He wasn't lying. Very cool lounge, LED's alternated colours on the ceiling in tune with the music while an awesome DJ played good tracks. Chachi douchebags filled the place, calling me to chuckle under my breath and sometimes even laugh out loud, or just smile in amusement. Regardless, I just wanted to dance and have some fun, and did I! Especially when some chick DJ took over. I'm not sure if they'd prearranged the tracklist so she had all the good songs or if she was just more talented, but it was a great night!
Having to get up early to pack up and then head to the cemetary to pay my respects, I decided to call it an early night. Man oh man... did the CN Tower ever look wonderful during the walk home... Such a great city.
Another great thing about this city is the multiculturalism of it all. So many people with so many backgrounds coexisting, and cohabitating, getting along, being friends, getting married, without worrying about the colour of eachother's skin. Why can't it be like that globally? Of course I wasn't searching out places where tension might actually exist and be prevalent.
Navigating with google maps on a celphone is a pain in the caboose, but I found the cemetary. With time to spare, I went to a nearby gas station and had a breakfast sandwich at Timmies. While enjoying my BLT Bagel, a gentleman walked in. He was blind. Blind people don't deserve pity. They deserve respect. The fact that this guy is still living his life, and getting out in the morning for a coffee, rather than just moping around his house feeling sorry for himself and the cards he was drawn, shows great tenacity. I understand that being born blind or losing sight when young is probably greatly different to losing it after a lifetime of having it, but I know if I could no longer see, I would be devestated. I felt very appreciative to be who I am, and to have lived the life I have lived. I couldn't help but feel like an ass for any time I'd every whined to myself that I'd had it tough.
Riding around the cemetary made that hit home even more. I anticipated meeting Viktor's mother, and it sunk home heavily what kind of pain my own mother would be feeling if she were to lose me so untimely. It was sombering riding around, and I had to keep myself from tearing up in my helmet.
I met Viktor's friend, Raymond, but his mother had a doctor's appointment and couldn't make it. Raymond and I exchanged stories about how we knew Viktor and had met, talked about life, our futures, and how great a guy Viktor was. His mother had hoped to meet me. Meeting Viktor's friends and hearing all the positive stories about him was helping her, even just a little bit. Unfortunately she was only free that afternoon, and I'd be at the baseball game, and then off to London.
I went to a Starbucks for some free wifi. I couldn't help but reflect on everything from that morning. My heart was heavy. It may sound selfish or insensative but I tried to think about the rest of my trip. I wanted to understand what I was feeling but not let anything hamper my spirits. I still have two weeks to travel.
I left the cafe to head to the game, put my foot down on the shifter and felt it give way causing my foot to fall a few extra inches than normal. I looked down. My shift-assist mechanism had snapped, the shifter dangling at its pivot point. Oh wow.
After some rigamarole, I had BMW Road Side assist sending Moto Limo out to get my bike to take to the nearest BMW Motorrad dealer which unfortunately had no mechanics to work on the bike til Monday. Immediately I had to look at the bright side. I would enjoy more time in Toronto, see more films, in exchange for partying in London during the last hoorah of orientation week where things get crazy. As well, I made a call to Viktor's mother to let her know that I had time to see her now, and we set a time for lunch the next day.
And then a major speedbump; My shift-assist part would have to be ordered from Germany. Two weeks away. I was 10 minutes away from posting on Facebook "Trip plans altered, 2 weeks to go anywhere, do anything, Any suggestions?"... 'Adapt and Overcome'. I could hop a plane and fly somewhere fun, or couchsurf Toronto for 2 weeks, meeting all kinds of awesome people and enjoying the film festival in toto... 'Roll with the punches'. Then what I had suggested, to change out the part for a regular shifter on one of the retail bikes, and then replace it with a part they could get in a few days (the regular shifters were in stock at the warehouse unlike the autoshifter so far away), was okay'd and the second moto salesman, who was fairly mechanically inclined made the swap for me. Slight hiccup in the trip, but I was now back on track. Fortunately the hostel that I had just called to reserve a room for the night was totally okay with giving me a refund even though we were well into the no-cancellation timing. Canadian Backpackers Hostel, very reasonable.
The ball game had already begun, I'd been informed that Jay's games are abhorrantly boring, but most importantly, I'd agreed to see Vik's mom, and I knew that should take presidence. We arranged to meet up in Greek Town, where she would show me recent pictures from Viktor's older brother's wedding, and to hear about my brief friendship with her son.
We sat in a Tim Hortons (Yes, they're everywhere), and looked through the photo album from the trip to Mexico for the wedding, 2 weeks before he was killed in the accident. She was very strong, I did my best to be strong as well, despite everytime looking at her, seeing my own mother, and imagining how she would be in this same situation, talking to strangers about me. I was able to keep my composure, and she told me of all the people who had only known Viktor a short time, but who still made the trip to Toronto for the funeral. That's the thing about Fort McMurray, so many people living there for a short time to make money, making friends quickly, being fortunate when you find good people amongst many that aren't that great. That these people would travel was a true testament to how great a guy he was. I told her of my positive experiences with her son, and how I believed that Viktor was an integral part in the chain of events that has lead to me having such a great experience on my trip, and how thankful I was for that. No words could ever assuage her grief of course, but I said that she should take great comfort in the fact that Viktor impacted so many people positively in his short life when so many others go a lifetime without doing that for people. She appreciated it, but nothing would take away that pain.
Walking back to my bike, I tried to cheer up, but couldn't shake the thought of my mother being absolutely broken if I died. There is a special bond between mothers and their sons. That coupled with the loss my mother has faced in the past, made her anguish painfully inconceivable to me.
Then I got a text. It was coincidentally from my mother. I called her immediately. I had to listen to 10 minutes of bitching and griping about the potentiality that I could lose my job, and how that would impact her semi-retirement and financial situation, and freedom to shop or something like that. All without real warrant of course, amplified by a condition of over-anxiety, and needless worry. So much for the tingly feeling I'd had and the strong sense of empathy over her pain at my hypothetical loss.
Incredible... Isn't it? My bike had a mechanical failure keeping me from going to a baseball game, so that I could go and help with the sorrow of a grieving mother, but still continue on with my journey as planned, only missing a baseball game that apparently wouldn't be worth going to anyway. Uncanny. Maybe fate doesn't exist. But maybe it does.
The ride to London along the 403 and 401 was beautiful. The clouds, deep and gray, the rain at bay so far, the leaves just starting to change, the crops yellow and brown. I'm not sure if there was a lot of rain in the area while I was away, but this part of Canada is looking so gorgeous. I really love it.
Arrived at my buddy Aaron's place where he was now renting with 3 others for his courageous return to college. I'd met Aaron while in Kelowna around the same time the fateful houseboat catastrophe occured. We'd had a hilarious time stomping around the area and kept in touch over Facebook. Upon hearing I would be in the area on my travels I was invited to stay and coincidentally it was during the most massive party of the year.
What a night, went to a place called Jack's after watching some Beer Pong at the house. We got in early to avoid lines but within an hour the place was wall to wall people, primarily crazy college kids. The DJ was no Tiesto, but top 40 kept the place hopping and you could hardly move on the dance floor.
Met up with a friend who worked as a pharmacy tech back in Fort McMurray during the summer. Only got together once for coffee but the conversation was enjoyable so it was good to briefly reunite.
It's Sunday now, staying around for one more night in London to chill, Leaving for Michigan tomorrow to meet up with a buddy from Powerslide.net! Hopefully I have no problem getting back across the border with my two unpaid tickets and my unpaid parking ticket :P lol
Travelling by motorcycle IS, HANDS DOWN, the most exhilarating and beautiful means for experiencing the world around you when you travel. I realized this after motorcycling all of eastern Europe last fall. So I've decided to scrap the Ireland Hike and use that vacation time to see nearly all of North America. It will be fast and hard for 3 months, but I will see and do a lot while casually promoting a Luxury Sport Bike Touring Company I am working on starting.
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